Projects

The Sir Salvador by Nobis: Technical Outerwear for City Weather

A glossy black padded down jacket worn with jeans
A glossy black padded down jacket worn with jeans. Photo: Ralph Schulz, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Nobis is a Toronto outerwear brand founded in the late 2000s by people who had worked in the Canadian winter-coat business. Its pitch is simple: jackets built for serious cold and wet that still look sharp in a city.

In 2017 one of the lighter pieces in its men's range was a jacket called the Sir Salvador. As described at the time, it combined vintage-inspired cuffs with hemstitch detailing, deep welt pockets with flaps, an angled chest welt, a button at the lapel, branded leather trims, a quilted lining and underarm vents to let heat out. Like much of the Nobis range, it was designed to be windproof and waterproof. It is a useful case study because it shows what to look for in any technical jacket that has to work in town.

What makes outerwear "technical"

  • Waterproof membrane and taped seams. A water-repellent coating alone will wet out in a long downpour.
  • Windproofing. On a cold, windy day this matters as much as insulation.
  • Breathability and venting. Underarm zips or vents stop you overheating on the Underground.
  • Insulation that suits the climate. Down for dry cold, synthetic fill for damp cold, a light quilted liner for in-between.
A hooded down parka on display at an outdoor trade show
A hooded down parka on display at an outdoor trade show. Photo: Matti Blume, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

How to style it

Technical jackets look most modern when the cut is relaxed. Sizing up slightly gives room for a jumper underneath and a looser, more casual line. Wear it over a hoodie and joggers for a sports-luxe look, or over a roll neck and wool trousers to bridge smart and practical. Navy, black and olive are the easiest colours.

The parka goes upmarket

Canadian parka brands moved from Arctic research stations to city streets over the past two decades, and long, heavy down parkas are now as common outside London and Monaco hotels as on ski slopes. If your winter weekends involve standing outside, whether at a football ground, on the rails at a racecourse or queuing for a Cheltenham race day, a properly waterproof jacket is worth more than any fashion label.

Buying tip: check the waterproof rating and whether seams are taped before you look at the logo. Brand names change; the physics of rain does not.