You have the suit, the tie and the shoes. You look as sharp as you ever have. Yet something is missing, and nine times out of ten it is a pocket square.
A folded square of fabric in the breast pocket is a tiny thing, but it finishes a jacket the way a full stop finishes a sentence. On a wedding day, when every photograph will be looked at for decades, it matters more than ever.
Which fabric?
- Silk has a luxurious sheen and is the natural choice for a wedding or a black-tie evening. It works best in loose, puffed folds.
- Linen holds a crisp edge and suits the formal straight fold. White linen is the classic for dinner suits.
- Cotton is affordable and easy, a good everyday choice.
The folds
| Fold | Look | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Straight (presidential) | A neat horizontal line, about a centimetre showing | Black tie, the most formal option |
| Peak / one point | A single sharp triangle | Business suits, weddings |
| Two or three points (crown) | Several stacked points | Weddings, celebrations |
| Puff | A soft, rounded billow | Silk squares, relaxed tailoring |
The peak, corner and triangle folds all leave a neat point showing above the pocket. They were popular in the jazz age and look sharp and snappy without being stiff. The straight fold is the most minimal and formal of all, traditionally reserved for black tie with a white square and a tuxedo.
Matching without matching
The old rule is that a pocket square should never exactly match the tie; it should pick up a colour from it, or from the shirt or suit. For a wedding, a groom might choose a white silk square while the groomsmen wear a colour that echoes the bridesmaids.
From the wedding to the casino
A dinner suit with a white straight-folded square is the uniform of the grand casino evening. It is the look of Sean Connery's first Bond scene at the baccarat table and of black-tie nights at clubs from Mayfair to Monte Carlo. If you are planning one, our James Bond casino wardrobe breaks it down piece by piece, and custom tailored suits explains how to commission the suit itself.
