Autumn is the season when hats stop being an affectation and start being useful. A felt hat keeps off the drizzle, frames the face and finishes a coat better than anything else you can buy.
Four hats, four personalities
1. The modern guy: a grey wool-felt trilby
An unlined wool-felt trilby with a subtly rolled brim and a slightly wrinkled leather band is the easiest way into hats. Wool felt is affordable, light and forgiving, and grey goes with navy, charcoal and camel coats alike.
2. The classic guy: a charcoal fur-felt trilby
Fur felt, traditionally made from rabbit hair, is denser, smoother and more water-resistant than wool, with a soft velour or polished finish. A charcoal trilby with a wide grosgrain ribbon and a leather sweatband is the sort of hat that London's old hatters, such as Lock & Co. in St James's Street, have sold for generations.
3. The fashion-forward guy: a silver-grey broad brim
A wide brim and rounded crown in pale wool felt is more statement than staple. It suits longer coats, oversized knitwear and anyone confident enough to be noticed.
4. The contemporary guy: a black ranger
The ranger hat has a soft crown, a slightly rolled brim and a rugged, outdoorsy feel. In black fur felt, often with a half leather band, it pairs well with denim, leather jackets and boots.
Fur felt or wool felt?
| Fur felt | Wool felt | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Dense, smooth, holds shape | Lighter, slightly coarser |
| Weather | Sheds rain well | Can lose shape when soaked |
| Price | Higher | Lower |
| Best for | A hat you will keep for years | Trying out a new shape |
Fit and wear
- Measure around your head just above the ears and eyebrows. A hat should sit snugly without leaving a mark.
- Match brim width roughly to your build: broader shoulders can carry a broader brim.
- Handle a felt hat by the brim, not the pinch at the front, which wears out first.
Hats at the races
Autumn and winter is jump racing season in Britain, and the racecourse is one of the few places where men still wear hats as a matter of course. Trilbies and flat caps dominate at Cheltenham, while the summer's Royal Ascot calls for a top hat in the Royal Enclosure. See our guide to race-day style and betting for the rules, and how to wear a trilby for outfit ideas.
