Double denim has a reputation problem. Done badly, it looks like a uniform you forgot to take off. Done well, it is one of the most effortless looks in menswear, and it does not have to mean jeans and a denim jacket.
A story about a dress code
The phrase "Canadian tuxedo" is usually linked to Bing Crosby. In 1951 the singer was reportedly refused entry to a smart hotel in Vancouver because he was wearing denim from head to toe. Levi's responded by making him a denim tuxedo jacket. It is a reminder that denim has always been in a tug of war with dress codes, a theme that still matters at the door of a European casino today.
Rules that actually help
- Mix the washes. A mid-blue jacket with dark indigo trousers, or black denim with blue, looks deliberate. Identical washes look like a boiler suit.
- Change the shape. Swap jeans for wide denim trousers, a dropped-crotch denim pant or a denim work shirt, and the outfit stops looking like a cliche.
- Layer with structure. A denim jacket over a denim work shirt over a longer plain shirt creates depth. The layers should be visibly different lengths.
- Add a non-denim anchor. A felt hat, leather boots, a knitted tie or bright socks breaks up the blue.
The pieces worth owning
| Piece | What to look for |
|---|---|
| Denim jacket | Classic trucker cut, short body, shoulders that fit |
| Denim work shirt | Mid-weight chambray or denim, two chest pockets |
| Alternative denim trouser | Wide leg, carpenter or relaxed pleated cut |
| Accessory | Fur-felt hat or leather belt to break the blue |
American workwear labels such as Wrangler and Levi's still make the definitive jackets, while smaller makers produce denim shirts and trousers in Japanese and Italian fabrics. Wash raw denim sparingly so it fades with your movements.
Where double denim does not go
Denim has been accepted in most bars, on most Las Vegas casino floors and in plenty of restaurants. It is still not welcome everywhere. The classic gaming rooms of Baden-Baden and the evening salons in Monte Carlo expect a jacket and smart trousers, and many racecourse enclosures have similar rules. Keep double denim for the daytime and pack a tailored suit for the evening.
