For a long time the rule was simple: gym clothes stayed in the gym bag. Then hoodies got heavier, joggers got slimmer, trainers got cleaner, and the line between training kit and weekend wardrobe all but disappeared.
Merriam-Webster added the word athleisure to its dictionary in 2016, which is about the moment most men noticed that the smartest person on the train might be wearing a tracksuit. The trend has outlived its hype because it solves a real problem. Many men now split their week between a desk, a gym, a sofa and a bar, and they want clothes that can handle at least two of those without a change.
Start with the hoodie
The hoodie is the anchor of any athleisure outfit, so it is worth buying well. Look for a heavyweight loopback or brushed-back cotton that holds its shape, a hood that stands up rather than collapsing, and ribbed cuffs and hem that do not bag out after three washes. Plain is easier to style than logo-heavy. If you want branding, keep it small and on the chest.
- Fit: the shoulder seam should sit on or just past your shoulder. Oversized works, but only if the rest of the outfit is slimmer.
- Colour: black, charcoal, navy, grey marl and ecru cover almost everything.
- Layering: a hoodie under a wool overcoat, a denim jacket or a bomber is the quickest way to make gym kit look like a decision.
Tonal dressing does the work for you
The easiest athleisure outfit is all black: black hoodie, black joggers, black backpack. It looks expensive even when it is not, it hides the creases of a day on the move and it photographs well. The risk is that it can look flat, so break it up with one contrasting element. A pair of black-and-white trainers is enough, or a pair of round frames, or a grey marl layer under the hoodie.
If black feels too severe, try the same idea in grey or navy. Matching top and bottom in the same shade is the move that separates athleisure from simply wearing old gym kit.
Trainers, bags and the finishing details
Running shoes in technical mesh look right with joggers; minimal leather trainers make the same outfit smarter. Socks should be plain and visible only when you want them to be. A structured backpack or a nylon crossbody bag keeps the look practical without turning it into a school run. Our guide to white trainers covers the shoes that work with almost everything, and the jogger pants guide covers the trousers.
Where athleisure meets the card table
There is one public arena where athleisure became the uniform long before fashion caught on: the poker room. Since the online poker boom of the 2000s, tournament players have favoured hoodies, sunglasses and headphones for comfort through long sessions and for hiding their reactions. It is a look with its own etiquette, and we unpack it in what to wear to a poker tournament.
The rule of thumb: one sporty piece in a smart outfit looks modern; one smart piece in a sporty outfit looks intentional. Everything sporty, head to toe, needs to be tonal and clean.
