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Casual Winter Essentials: Layering Without the Bulk

A blue knitted beanie and matching snood worn with a mustard jumper and houndstooth coat
A blue knitted beanie and matching snood worn with a mustard jumper and houndstooth coat. Photo: Tobias ToMar Maier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Winter dressing is mostly about layering, and layering is what makes cold-weather outfits more interesting than summer ones. The trick is to build warmth from thin, good layers rather than one enormous coat.

The knit that does the heavy lifting

A crew-neck jumper in lambswool or merino is the hardest-working piece in a winter wardrobe. Lambswool is warmer and has a slightly rustic texture; merino is finer, smoother and easier to wear under a jacket. Either looks sharp over a crisp white shirt with just the collar showing, a combination that works as well in an office as in a pub.

A jacket instead of an overcoat

Not every winter day needs a long coat. A denim jacket lined with shearling or fleece, such as the sherpa-lined truckers made by Levi's and many others, is warm enough for a dry, cold day and much less formal. Wear it over a jumper, and you have two insulating layers without bulk. For wet days, a quilted or down-filled jacket does the same job; see our look at technical outerwear from Nobis.

A white beanie and a chunky knitted scarf, two easy winter layers
A white beanie and a chunky knitted scarf, two easy winter layers. Photo: Peachyeung316, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

The essentials list

  • Two jumpers: one lambswool crew in a neutral colour, one roll neck in navy or charcoal.
  • A white Oxford shirt to wear underneath.
  • Lined denim or a padded jacket for casual days, a wool overcoat for smart ones.
  • Trousers with weight: flannel, corduroy or a pinstripe wool in camel or grey looks richer in winter light than thin chinos.
  • A beanie in burgundy, navy or grey. Roll the cuff so it sits above the ears for a neat look, or wear it slouchier with sportswear.
  • Derby shoes or boots in oxblood or dark brown leather, waxed or polished so they survive the rain.

Colour for dark days

Winter is the season for warm, deep colours: burgundy, oxblood, forest green, camel and chocolate. One rich colour against neutrals is plenty. A burgundy beanie with a camel trouser and a navy jumper looks considered, not loud.

From the street to a winter night out

Winter is also the season of Christmas parties, long dinners and the occasional night at the casino tables. A roll neck under a navy blazer is the most useful smart-casual outfit you can own for those evenings. It clears the smart-dress expectations of most London casinos, though the grand European rooms may still ask for a jacket and tie, as explained in our guide to casino dress codes.